Tuesday, December 23, 2014

გამარჯობა საქართველოდან!

გამარჯობა საქართველოდან! (Hello from Georgia!)

First off, let me just share with you the joy that is the Georgian word გვფრცქვნის. This word has eight (!) consonants in a row. Now, I'm no professional philologist or anything, but I'm pretty sure that's the most consonants in a row in any word in any language. Say it with me now, "gvprtskvnis." Isn't that fun? It's actually nine consonants in a row with the transliteration from Georgian into the Latin alphabet, since the Georgian letter ც is "ts." I don't have too many opportunities to use this word, as it means something like "he/she/it is peeling/skinning us," but maybe I'll be able to show it off when I'm the lead potato in our school play and the evil peeler attacks me and my potato friends.  

Anyways, let’s see what’s been going on since last time…

I spent Halloween weekend in the western city of Kutaisi, Georgia's second biggest city. Some awesome volunteers organized a big game of Ninja (or maybe it was called Assassins?), which is like a combination of a scavenger hunt and manhunt. About 25 of us were in Kutaisi for the weekend, and Saturday afternoon we all met up to start the game. The weather wasn't too great, but we powered through. 



Everyone got a piece of paper with the name of someone they had to “kill,” as well as a list of activities to accomplish. There were specific instructions for how to kill your specific target, and you had to follow the activities in order. Everyone had the same activities, but the order varied from person to person. Basically, you'd eventually run into your target while doing the activities, and if you managed to kill your target, you then took your target's target and tried to kill that new person, and so on and so forth until there was just one person left alive. For example, I had to kill Joe by walking in a circle around him, and my order of activities was something like: find out all the shows that are playing this month at the theater, take a picture with a Georgian at this specific bridge, order a beer at this restaurant from this waiter, etc… I ended up seeing Joe at the restaurant, but while I was waiting for him to get up from his chair so I could walk in a circle around him, Ann crept over and drew an X on my hand, thus killing me and ending my pursuit of Ninja glory. 


I ended up staying at the restaurant and enjoying some beers with the rest of the deceased for a while, and then around 8pm everyone met up at this nice Chinese restaurant where we had a huge room and dance floor all to ourselves for a big Halloween bash. Unfortunately, I didn't have a costume, but some volunteers got pretty creative. One girl had a Black Swan outfit made from the feathers of a black chicken her host family killed and plucked just for the occasion. Now that’s dedication.


The plaid gang

The following weekend I went to Telavi, the capital of the eastern province of Kakheti, for Telavoba, which is a city-wide celebration for no apparent reason. There are two volunteers who live in Telavi, and I met up with them and a couple other friends who came into town for the festivities. There were concerts, fireworks, and a motorcycle show. There was probably some other stuff going on all day, but I didn’t get to Telavi until Friday evening. On Saturday we walked around and took in the sights. We saw a 900-year-old tree, got some lunch as we looked out onto incredible views of the Caucasus Mountains, explored one of the oldest churches in the city, walked around Old Telavi, and then stopped at the bazaar on the way home to pick up some wine at the wonderful price of 4 lari (about $2.40) per liter. We cooked ourselves dinner, enjoyed the wine, and had a great time.

Telavi

During the next week at school, one of my 2nd graders had a birthday party in their classroom after school. I drank brandy with my director and a couple other teachers while the kids toasted with soda in between their dance parties. It felt a little odd to be taking shots with teachers in the 2nd grade classroom surrounded by the 2nd graders, but such is life in Georgia. Everyone was having a great time, and I think it was actually the best cake I’ve ever tasted in my life.

The next day was my director’s late father’s birthday, and she invited me to join her at her brother’s house for a big family gathering and supra (feast). Her brother lives about 10 minutes away in one of the nicest houses I’ve seen in Georgia. There were about 15 people there and the first thing we did after everyone arrived was head over to the graveyard. We brought food and wine and toasted the deceased before heading back to the house for an enormous supra. You know it’s a serious supra when dishes have to be rested on top of other dishes because there’s just no more room left on the table. The dinner was a blast and I chatted with my director’s other brother for a while. He’s been living in America for a long time and speaks perfect English. He was joking around with me and giving me a hard time, especially about American politics, and my director had to jump in and tell him to shut up and leave me alone. It was pretty funny.

From Monday, November 17 to that Friday, volunteers were in the town of Bazaleti for In-Service Training and All Volunteer Conference. We stayed in a large hotel complex right next to Bazaleti's famous lake, and we all had a great time hanging out together every night. Training started Tuesday morning for me and my fellow new volunteers (G14s). We had language and cultural training sessions Tuesday and Wednesday, and then the rest of the volunteers (G13s) joined us for more training on Thursday and Friday. Thursday evening we had a big Thanksgiving dinner, and we were joined by Ambassador Norland and his wife as well as Deputy Chief of Mission Nicholas Berliner and his wife. A group of volunteers prepared all the food and everything was incredibly delicious.


Peace Corps Georgia volunteers

Thanksgiving dinner


A week later I had another Thanksgiving dinner on actual Thanksgiving day with my host family in Pasanauri. I had told my host mom earlier in the week about the holiday and she was more than happy to find a large chicken to substitute for turkey. My host family kind of already knew about Thanksgiving, but only to the extent that they knew Obama pardons a turkey for some reason on this particular day in America. My director and neighbor also joined us for dinner, and I got some much-needed toasting practice.

The fam - Nino, Nika, and Natela

The next day I traveled to Tbilisi en route to my third Thanksgiving dinner in the city of Gori. I stayed the night in Tbilisi and on Saturday morning, before heading out to Gori, I stopped by a large tradeshow at the Sheraton hotel. It was really crowded and there were tons of people selling jewelry, art, clothes, and a variety of other goods. There were even puppies for adoption as well as a food section where representatives from the various embassies sold traditional food from their countries. The Americans were selling Texas Chicken (the international branch of Church’s Chicken), but I opted for some super tasty Lithuanian meat-pocket things. I don’t know what they were called, but they were awesome. After exploring the various vendors for a while I grabbed a shared taxi heading to Gori, which is about 45 minutes west of Tbilisi (and also the city where Stalin grew up). There are four volunteers living in Gori, and they (and their host families) were nice enough to host me and about 20 other volunteers for the night. One of the volunteers who lives in Gori works for a youth organization, and his organization let us use their facilities to cook, eat dinner, and hang out all evening.

Thanksgiving dinner #3

The following weekend I visited my original host family in Gomi with my former Gomi-mate Angela. We met in Tbilisi on Saturday morning and rode a marshutka 90 minutes west to where our Peace Corps journey began. I had lunch with Angela’s host family and hung out there for a while before heading over to my host family’s house. Unbeknownst to me, my host brother and his wife had recently moved to Tbilisi to live with my other host brother, and the oldest host brother was working in Tbilisi for the weekend. I basically just hung out and drank wine with my host dad all evening, but it was still really nice to see and chat with the rest of the family. On Sunday morning I had breakfast at Angela’s and then we grabbed a marsh back to Tbilisi.

On Saturday, December 13, I helped conduct the Mtskheta-Mtianeti regional spelling competition, which was held at the Georgian-American School in Tbilisi. In case you forgot, the local competition took place during the last week in October at participating schools throughout the region. Each school had four winners (two from grades 8-9 and two from 10-12), and those winners then came to the regional round. Not every winner was able to make it, though, and we ended up with about 12 kids from 8-9th grade and 13 kids from 10-12th. The students completed a written spelling test, and then the top half of each group advanced to the second stage, which was an oral spelling test. It was a lot of fun seeing how excited the kids got when we were announcing the winners of the first round as well as when we let kids know that they had gotten a particular word right in the oral round. Two of my students made it to the oral round, but unfortunately they didn’t advance to the national competition. I was still extremely proud of the work they had put in and of what they were able to accomplish, and they’ll be even better next year.

Regional round participants

The capital of the district I live in is Dusheti, but I had never gotten the chance to visit until last week. On Thursday I traveled there with my director and a few other teachers to watch an award ceremony for a famous artist from my town, Ilia Patashuri. Some of his artwork was on display at the culture center/theater, and the ceremony included singers, dancers, poets, and other various forms of tribute. I forgot to bring my camera, but as it turned out I went back to Dusheti to that same theater the following day. This time, though, about 15 teachers came, and it was for the 180th anniversary of Dusheti School #1 (there are two schools in town). There were probably about 500 people in attendance, including Georgia’s minister of science and education. It lasted about an hour and a half and was similar to the previous day’s events in terms of song and dance. There were a lot of speakers, including some famous scientists, but I didn’t really understand anyone (what else is new?) and by the end I was kind of ready to leave. The performances were pretty cool though. 

Georgia's Minister of Science and Education

A band of music teachers

All one family

Well, that's about it. This is my last week of school before Christmas break. Saturday morning I’m flying out to Athens, where I’ll meet up with my mom and brother, and after three days in Greece we’ll be in Istanbul for about four days. I'm really looking forward to the trip, and hopefully I'll have some awesome pictures to post next time!